Improvement in tailors  measttring-afparattts



MUELLER KO'ELLER.`

Tailors Measure.

PamndfJ-uly 2o, 1869.

NmA 927.873.v

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Letters .Patient No. 92,87 datedJ'fuZy 20, 1869.

IMPROVEMENT IN TAILORS :MEAS'U'RING-Z-LPPARA'JJUS.l

The Schedule referred' to in these Letters Patent and making part ofthe saine.

To all whom. fit may concern.

. Be'it known that we, FRITZ MUELLER andY HER- MANN KOELLER, of N ewiYork, in the county of New York, and State of New York; have invented a new and useful device for taking themeasures of gentlemen-and ladies, to cut patterns for coats, vests, and similar garments, whichwe propose to call Tailors Measuring-Instrument and we do hereby declare that the following is al full, clear, and exact description of the construction and operation of the same, reference being had tothe annexed drawings, making part of this specification, i'n which- Figure l represents a front View, and

=Figure 2, a view of the manner in which it is aistached to the human' body lwhen the measures are to be taken. v

The same letters in'both gures represent the'same parts of the device.

A A', in fig. l, are two extensible strips of' sheetmetal. A'is'graduated ininches and fractions of inches. They are fastenedto the sliding rods or blades B B B, in such a manner that they are paralled to'eaclr other.

B B B are perpendicular tothe extensible strips.

Yo o o o are pivots, for attaching strings, India-rubber ribbons, or extensible metallic strips, in order that the insrument may be adj usted to the-body,`as represented in iig. '2.l

C C are frames of sheet-metal. The inner parts of them, p p, are rounded off, 'so as to adapt themselves to the upper arm, (see iig. 2,) while the outer parts,fr r, are straight. They are attached to the extensible stripA in such a manner that parts q'- r are perpendicular -to thel same, and that they may be slid in a horizontal direction, forward and backward.'

q q are. screws, by means of which the frames may be adjusted to any desired point of strip A.-

The upper parts, s s s, of the perpendicular rods or blades B B B, are grooved, and the lower fparts are made to slide in them. l

c, o c are screws, by means of which the measuringinstrument maybe adjusted according to the size of the person.

x :t are pivots. They are' fastened to the frames C C, and destined to take up the blade or plummet F, so that it may freely swing in them. The latter can be elongated in a similar' manner as the perpendicular rods or blades.

Figure 3 represents a transverse section of it.

ln order 4to take the measures of a person,=.the instrument isv held either' under the right 'or left sege or arm-hole, so that the two frames' C C, with their pivots outward, liebetween the arrn. The graduated extensible Strip A is now adjusted in such a way that it 'cornes to vr'est upon the hip, when theinstrument is fastened around thc breast, as indicated. Hereafter the blade or plummet F is set in the front pivot, when Yitis adjusted to thel distance between the two extensible strips, so that its lowest part will rest upon the graduated strip A', Thisplurnmet shows'us-the position of the person of which the 'measure is tol be taken.' We then mark the number -indicated bythe plummet, when thetakingof the measures maybe proceeded with.

First, the distance is measured from the arm-hole `to the hip, then the length from the middle of the breast a (eide iig. 2)v t a point marked b, upon the drawing, which indicates about halt' thel distance from point a to the arm. We now take thevlength from this arbitrarily-chosen point to c, or Ythe right angle' formed by the frontfrarne an'd the upper strip A of the' device. Then the distance is' takenfrom c to d,

from d to point e, which: indicates also half i 'the distance between the centre, of the back f and the sege. Hereafter the width is measured from the centre of the waist h. to the number indicated by the plummet, and from here to point n of the back.

We ,finally measure the distance over the shoulder from the topparts ofthe frames, from b to e, and from a tof, as represented rin the respective 'gure These measurements being takemthe instrument is` removed from the body', and placed onl asheet ofpaper suiiiciently large for a pattern of the fore part of ithe garment to be made. The plummet vis then restored toits former position. Lines are now run along the latter', the two horizontal strips, arid the inner parts of the frames. This done, the instrument is put aside, the lines are sufficiently extended, and when all the poin'i's ofthe width and length, previously taken, have been marked, the diagram of the pattern is shaped by their aid,

Owing t0-the uncertainty of producing.; exact patterns of costumes by theold way of taking measures, diagrams of various patterns of certainsizes are largely made use 0f byA tailors. In employing them, theyconstruct diagrams in reduced scales, from which they cuttheir patterns.

It was Compaign, in Paris, who rst .introduced `a set of graduated inch' scales for reducing patterns, and he published also a system of cutting by the use of these scales,'but, being impracticablathey have greatly gone out of use.

J. B. West, of New York,`constructed another scale for producing patterns 'from originals, called by him Combination Geometrical- Scales. In using them, he recommends to take-no measure more than the circumference of the'breasft, length of coat, and length of sleeve/and if any changes are to be made, to make them by the' eye.

G. Beard patented patterns for laying outmeasurements Vandoren, a series of jackets; Tierney, a T- square; and besides these, various devices have been invented, bymeans of whichexact patterns 'of garments are intended to be produced. They being, however,

' of cutting will be sufficient to prove, that although we may possess the accurate widths and lengths measures, no idea can be formed therefrom of the relative position of the various parts of the body. This must entirely be left to the eye of the tailor, which circumstance is considered to be the reason why garments, for which exact measures have been taken, must repeatedly be tried on.

Lct us suppose that the measures of two personsof 4 perfectly the same size (the same. fulness of breast,

length of waist, &c.,) have been taken; one of 'them be erect in stature, the other'stooping. Will the tailor, from the measures in his possession, be enabled to cut to both fitting garments? This, certainly, is greatly dependent upon chance, and constitutes the so-called art of cutting.

lVith respect to the instrument herein'described, it

'willbe seen, that if the same is attached to a person the blade or plummet F will always indicate the true position of the body, or the relation of the thorax to the lower extremities. This position being indicated on paper by the lines' referred to, We are enabled to sce at once in what proportion fore part, sigh-t, and back of the garment` are to each other, and are thus enabled to make a costume which will fit closely, in allsrespects, and retain its shape until worn out.

What we claim, therefore, as our invention, and desire to secure by Letters Patent, is-

The sliding and adjustable blade or plummet F, in combination with the graduated strip or blade A', and the two sliding and adjustable frames O C', in the manner and for the purpose herein described and Vrepresented.

FR. MUELLER. H. KOELLER.

Witnesses:

ADOLPH OTT, HENRY WEHLE. 

